Dries van noten
There's no shortage of Asian influences this season, but it's apparent Dries aimed higher (in rank) than anyone else. Leave it to Dries to deconstruct, then disseminate, a swath of ancient Chinese imperial embroidery previously only fit (and not to mention, only legal) to adorn an Emperor of China.
To breathe some 21st century light into the old digs, he drafted the longpao's nine golden dragons, swirls of clouds and rolling frothy waves to grace silken flowing frocks, one slithering beautifully under an ambient green parka, to emblazon mannish boxy blazers with upturned collars and perhaps most poignantly, to decorate a sharply tailored overcoat, insouciantly brushed aside by a single hand in pocket.
The latter did infer a smidgen of regality, but for the most part the designer took the imperial dress and removed much of the stiff grandeur associated with royal costume, delivering a lineup of coherent, relevant looks in true Dries-like fashion.
Slouchy bottoms and side slitted crewneck sweaters took the edge off almost militant, straight cut blazers, and double black-on-black bottoms added more fuel to the fire that is skirts over pants for Fall (see Prada, Louis Vuitton, etc). All of this carried in slick pumps patterned with painterly burning embers or pastel reptilia and neatly trimmed, calf hair lace-ups.
1 comment:
Ahh I loved Dries this season! So many beautiful items :)
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